All gardeners are well aware that a good harvest of any crop is possible only with timely care of the plants. First of all, this will be the creation of the necessary soil fertility. And it is possible to fulfill the requirement only with the help of fertilizers, which are divided into two groups: organic and mineral. One of the most popular and accessible mineral fertilizers is urea. We will talk about the use of urea in gardening in this article.
Table of contents
1. Characteristics of fertilizer and signs of the need for its use 2. Pros and cons of applying 3. Timing of fertilizing 4. How to use urea 5. Application rates for different crops 6. Control of diseases and pests using treatments
There are big problems with organics due to a significant decline in the development of livestock farming, which forms the bulk of organics. But mineral fertilizers come to the rescue. Fortunately, acquiring them will not be difficult, if only you had the means! Summer residents, mostly pensioners, try to buy cheaper mineral water. There is a wide range of chemical mineral fertilizers on the market – both single-component, containing one element, and complex, with a full range of macro- and microelements. The main thing is to make the right decision and, without spending extra money, bring maximum benefit to the plants without harm to humans.
Urea: what is it and in what cases is it used
Urea or carbamide is a mineral fertilizer with the highest nitrogen content (at least 46%). The scientific name is carbonic acid diamide. Chemical formula: (NH2)2CO or H2N-CO-NH2. Synthesized from carbon dioxide and ammonia. It is of great importance for plant growth as a source of nitrogen, affecting the growth of green vegetative mass and the growth of the entire plant.
Regardless of the manufacturer, the fertilizer is large, 1.5–4.5 mm, white (sometimes light, grayish or completely colorless) odorless granules. Recently, urea tablets have been available on sale (it is claimed that they are of higher quality), coated with an easily soluble coating that prevents the rapid volatilization of nitrogen. This made the application even more convenient, but more expensive. Urea is available in two types – A and B. Type B is used in gardening.
On a note
Not long ago, urea, colored brown, appeared on the market. This is a so-called humatized analogue of nitrogen fertilizer, containing about 1% humic salts, which contribute to improved absorption of chemical elements by plants.
Signs of plants indicating nitrogen deficiency
- Stunted growth. Trees and shrubs have short, weak and thin shoots.
- Reduced yield due to premature entry of plants into the flowering phase.
- The leaf apparatus acquires a pale green color, the leaves become smaller.
- The lower leaves often fall off.
- The buds are underdeveloped, there are very few of them on the shoots.

Pros and cons of using urea (urea)
Positive properties of urea.
- Requirements for storage conditions. When stored correctly (dry place, closed container) it does not cake, maintaining good flowability of the granules.
- Supplying soil with nitrogen. Decomposing in the soil, it supplies the soil with nitrogen in a form easily accessible to plants.
- Good solubility. It dissolves well in liquids (water) and moist soil. The speed of this process is greatly influenced by temperature conditions: water for irrigation, soil, environment, and the condition of the plant.
- Versatility. It has the property of forming solutions not only based on water, but also based on other liquids (for example, alcohol). Easily combines with other substances of organic and inorganic origin. You can combine fertilizer with the application of manure, sodium nitrate, potassium chloride, superphosphate and other substances that do not contain lime and calcium. It can be used either in liquid form or by simply adding dry granules to moist soil or followed by watering.
- Safety. Does not cause burns to leaves when the solution gets on them.
- Slower onset of flowering. Spring spraying with urea helps slow down the flowering process, preventing flowers from falling off during possible spring frosts. This is fraught with the loss of the entire harvest or part of it.
Despite all the positive aspects, the fertilizer also has some disadvantages:
- High volatility. This is the main drawback of the drug. It evaporates very easily from the surface of the soil and is just as quickly washed out of the soil. Therefore, the drug is applied in the spring, and not in the fall, with quick incorporation into the soil or rapid watering.
- Soil acidification. With prolonged, and especially uncontrolled application, soil acidification occurs, requiring additional costs for the application of deoxidizers.
- Decreased germination. An excessive increase in the dose of urea can lead to poor seed germination and reduced germination.
When is the best time to apply urea in spring?
Nitrogen strongly activates the growth of green mass of plants. Plants in the spring need to stimulate the formation of vegetative mass. With excessive use of nitrogen fertilizers, a process of “fatification” is often observed, when green bushes reach enormous sizes to the detriment of crop formation.
Gardeners often complain: they added a lot of manure (also a good source of nitrogen), fed them with urea (again, nitrogen). The plants stand tall and beautiful, the foliage is bright green, but there is no harvest. In this case, all the plant’s forces have gone into the development of the vegetative mass, and it has neither the strength nor the desire to bear fruit. Therefore, urea is mainly applied in the spring before flowering begins. It is not recommended to treat plants with urea in the fall before wintering, so as not to cause unnecessary growth of young shoots that may freeze in winter.
Important
I would like to draw the attention of gardeners, who often scatter urea granules on the snow in early spring. Take your time and let it melt. After all, the granules quickly decompose in the light and evaporate, and then there’s snow! Even if some of the fertilizer is retained, the granules will be washed away by spring meltwater. In addition, it has been found that nitrogen reduces frost resistance by approximately 2 degrees. Therefore, until the return of late frosts completely stops, early spring feeding of the first spring plants can contribute to their death.
How to feed urea in liquid and granular form: a cheat sheet for summer residents
Urea has found wide use among gardeners and farmers due to its low cost and ease of use. For the same reason, some land owners sometimes try to replace the lack of other fertilizers with this nitrogen representative, which is fundamentally wrong and harmful. When using this drug, it is very important to follow the correct dosage and frequency of use.
The fertilizer is used on almost any type of soil. But well-moistened turf, loamy and clayey, heated soils with low acidity (neutral and close to alkaline) are preferred. The following is the algorithm:
- In early spring (one and a half to two weeks before sowing), the granules are evenly scattered over the surface of the soil and embedded to a depth of about 10 cm.
- When planting seedlings or seedlings, urea is poured into planting holes (up to 4 g of the drug), followed by mixing with soil and watering.
- Typically, 30–50 g of granules are used to prepare a nutrient solution, dissolving them in a bucket (10 l) of water. This fertilizing is applied by spraying on the leaves during the growing season of plants, spending up to 10–15 ml per plant, before flowering or by watering under the bush. When applied dry per 10 sq. M is distributed in 50–100 g of the drug. The granules are scattered onto pre-watered soil and embedded to a depth of about 10 cm. In this case, the drug does not evaporate, quickly dissolves and enters the soil.
Advice
If you don’t have scales at hand, use this hint: 1 tablespoon or matchbox contains 12–15 g of urea.
How to dilute urea to fertilize different crops: a clear table
Urea cannot be applied equally to all crops, and especially not without control. Each crop reacts differently and at different times to nitrogen deficiency:
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Culture
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Features of application
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Tomatoes
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It is advisable to apply it to open beds during the period of planting seedlings. This is done in the holes with dry granules, followed by watering and mixing with soil to prevent burns to the root system. The consumption rate, as for other vegetables, is 5–10 g per 1 square meter. m beds.
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Potato
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It is advisable to apply it for digging during the spring preparation of beds for planting together with other fertilizers. The recommended norm is no more than 2.5 kg per hundred square meters. If growth is delayed, subsequently during the growing season you can further fertilize with the drug (30 g) dissolved in a bucket of water, with an application rate of up to 1 liter for each bush. Similar feeding will not interfere with other vegetables: tomatoes, cucumbers, garlic, berries (strawberries).
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cucumbers
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It is applied both when preparing the soil before sowing or planting seedlings, and “by leaf” in the form of a solution: 20 g of KCL (potassium chloride) and 10 g of urea. If plants are stunted or have other external signs of nitrogen starvation, you can irrigate at the root by dissolving 15 g of the drug in a bucket of warm water.
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Ornamental and fruit plants
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Consumption of dry preparation – 15–20 g per 1 sq. m. Water feeding at the root (20–30 g per 10 liters of water) is carried out 5–6 days after flowering and, if necessary, repeated after 25–30 days. If it is necessary to apply nutrition to the bushes of currants, gooseberries and other crops, dig depressions of about 10 cm around the bush around the circumference, into which fertilizer granules are poured and immediately sealed with constant abundant watering.
You can also water with a liquid solution: 15 g x 10 l of water. The same composition is used for spring spraying of trees. The event is carried out before the buds swell and always at positive temperatures – not lower than +5 degrees. |
We treat with urea against pests and diseases
A solution of urea is often used as a fungicide against fungal infections and an insecticide to destroy pests: insect larvae, aphid eggs, and weevils. Only in this case should you use a more concentrated solution. For example, you can treat garden plantings in the spring before the buds swell by dissolving at least half a kilogram of the drug in 10 liters of water. In the fall, after the leaves have fallen, it is advisable to carry out a similar treatment of trees and shrubs. Below we will talk about carrying out health spraying of pumpkin crops against peronosporosis and bacteriosis.
For the prevention and subsequent control of a very common fungal disease of pumpkins – downy mildew (peronospora) and bacteriosis, especially in the presence of weakened plants, we have developed and conducted many years of successful trials of foliar fertilizing. At the first signs of the disease, dissolve 30 g of urea and 2 g of microfertilizers (copper sulfate, potassium permanganate and boric acid) in 10 liters of lukewarm water and foliar spray the foliage.
With further development of the infection or to prevent the disease, treatment with the composition should be repeated 1-2 more times in two weeks, increasing the dose of urea to 50 g. This fertilizing leads to the activation of nitrogen metabolism processes, stimulates moderate growth of plant vines and helps to increase their productivity.
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Read also our other articles about fertilizers:
Azofoska: how, when and why to use an effective fertilizer
Bordeaux mixture: how to properly prepare and use an effective fungicide
Ash as a fertilizer: for vegetables, trees, flowers, soil, seedlings, against weeds, diseases and pests
Iron and copper sulfate: when to use and how to dilute
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Do you use urea? Share your feedback with other gardeners in the comments.




